Indigo dye is a complex and historic pigment that has its roots deep into the soil of humankind. Traditionally and historically indigo dye has been extracted from a few different including; Indigofera Tinctoria, Istatis Tinctoria, and Persicaria Tinctoria. These species have created much of what we know today as Indigo dye (Indigotin).
Natural, plant based indigo dyed fabric has a few benefits and properties that make it very utilitarian for the modern person. Indigo has natural antibacterial and anti fungal properties which lend to its ability to reduce and control odor buildup. In addition, Indigo has a natural UV resistance as well as natural heat resistance, making it a staple in particularly Japanese fire fighting attire for centuries.
What makes indigo dye so special is its chemical structure, making it quite different than most textile dyes.
Indigotin is insoluble in water and needs undergo chemical change to reach a state of water solubility in order to be used as dye. With the process of fermentation or the use of chemical catalysts you can “reduce” (remove the oxygen) from a mixture of indigotin and water and create what is known as “leuco-indigo”. Leuco-Indigo has a yellowish green tint and is indeed water soluble, which in turn means that the dye and liquid mixture can penetrate the fibers of the fabric.
Once removed from the solution and exposed to oxygen the Leuco-Indigo reverts back into Indigotin. The reverted Indigotin is effectively trapped in the fibers as it becomes once again insoluble to water. This is how fabric is dyed and has been for literal centuries dating back thousands of years B.C. While the methods and means of production have radically changed over time, hand dyed indigo has remained an intrinsic part of many cultures heritage and we will do our best to honor the tradition how we can.